Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
